Frequently Asked Questions

Using a soft measuring tape, measure around your wrist where you would like your bracelet to sit. If you don't have a measuring tape, cut a strip of paper and wrap that around your wrist. Mark where it overlaps and lay it straight against a ruler to find your measurement, then add at least 1/2 inch to allow for a clasp. For the beaded items, add an extra 1/2 inch or so to allow room for the beads to sit comfortably on your arm. The size that you choose will depend on how tight you want your bracelet to be. My bracelets can be ordered in lengths of 6 1/2, 7, 7 1/2, 8, and 8 1/2 inches. These are the most common sizes, but please do message me if you prefer a length not listed, and I can probably make yours whatever length that you desire.

Chainmaille is an ancient art form that involves linking metal rings together in different patterns (also called "weaves"). Chainmaille is also known by many other names such as: chain maille, chainmail, chain mail, or simply mail or maille. The European 4in1 weave is one of the most widely recognized, as it has been used for centuries by soldiers all over the world for battlefield armor. There are currently many weaves that have been created specifically for jewelry making. The process of making chainmaille begins with coiling and cutting wire, which creates the jump rings used to make each weave. I do not coil and cut my own rings, I prefer to purchase them from high quality suppliers. There are two ways to cut the coiled wire, saw-cutting and pinch-cutting. Saw-cutting creates rings that have flat ends that will butt up against each other nicely. All of my bright aluminum and anodized aluminum items are made using saw-cut rings. Pinch-cutting creates rings that have a pinched appearance at either end. They do not close as smoothly as saw cut rings, but still can produce quite a nice closure if the crafter is careful. All of the items listed as "silver- or gold-plated" are made with pinch-cut rings. When I begin a project, I start with a pile of the pre-cut rings. These are left a little bit "ajar" from the coiling and cutting process. So I must first open each ring using two pairs of pliers, add the rings to the pattern one at a time, and then close each ring. For most of my earrings, this means opening and closing anywhere from 25 to 50 or more rings per earring a single tiny ring at a time! The whole process can be quite time consuming, but it is truly amazing to me to watch the patterns take shape into something beautiful so I really love doing it. I take my time with each ring to make sure they each close properly so they won't snag on your hair or clothing. My goal is for you to enjoy wearing my jewelry at least as much as I enjoyed making it.

Wire gauge refers to the diameter of the wire used to make the jump rings. The lower the number, the thicker the wire will be. All of the bright aluminum pieces are made with 16 gauge wire and so the rings are thicker than the silver or gold plated items which are all made with 21 gauge wire.  The 21 gauge wire is also what is usually used for the earring hooks. A thicker wire does not automatically mean a heavier weight, though. The pieces made with aluminum rings are significantly lighter than those made with the silver or gold plated rings.

The bead color pictures can be found here. Click on any of the images in the gallery to open a larger picture for a closer look.

All of the rings used to make the jewelry are nickel free, and all of the earrings have the "ball and coil fishhooks" which are nickel free as the default option. This is because nickel is the most common metal that people are allergic to, so nickel-free materials are safe for most people with allergies.